The Algarve

A few years ago, having checked out those car hire comparison  sites to get a good deal on four wheels in Portugal, we decided to give the Alagarve a go. Alright, admittedly the name can be enough to summon up images of lager swilling hoodlums, tacky tourist shops by the mile and coach loads of said tourists and nylon rucksacks. After all, this is the place that used to be known as Europe’s best kept secret until the builders turned up and concreted it over big time. And it may be true to an extent. Much of those once quaint places like Albufeira, Vilamonia and Quarteira have admittedly been ruined by developers and the tourist industry. But a good friend had put me straight. “Don’t make the mistake of going south like everyone”, he’d said, “go east and you’ll discover the real Algarve that hasn’t been messed up.”

So we hopped on a flight with EasyJet and two and a half hours later were stepping off the plane at Faro. Faro itself is well worth a stop. Its old town (Cidade Velha) with its cobbled streets and pretty orange tree lined square is a good place to sit with a coffee and get a feel for the place. You might even want to take the short trip from here to the beach at Faro Island.

From Faro we drove east along the coast and headed for Tavira. We reached this little fishing town in no more than half an hour, and fell in love with the place as as soon as we arrived.  Much of this town remains unspoilt by the developments in the south, and any new buildings that have appeared seemed to be discreet and sympathetic to their surroundings. In fact, much of this small town is populated by 16^th and 17^th century mansions and houses with their decorative  azuejos (tiles) intact. An impressive Roman bridge spanning the River Gilao, links the two sides of this charming town. Wander down its cobbled streets where old men play dominoes in the shade and sit at one of its cafes overlooking the Gilao River and watch the world go by.  Then if you have the energy in this sleepy little place, take a leisurely stroll to the 13^th century castle which was rebuilt by King Dinis and enjoy the splendid views. Although small, Tavira boasts no fewer than 37 churches, many with spires and some with white domes. The 16^th century Igneja da Misericordia with its blue and white  azuejos and brilliant carvings is perhaps the finest to be found anywhere in the Algarve.

Those of you who can’t do without the beach won’t be disappointed. Tavira’s beach takes the form of huge sandy spits known as Ilhas (little islands) and can be reached by a ferry which operates regularly. If you come here in May you may be lucky enough to catch the Gastronomy Festival and sample some of the town’s culinary offerings.

There are plenty of other little villages within easy reach. Cacela Velha is only a hamlet, but if you really want to find somewhere quiet, this is the place. Perched on a rocky promontory, the views from here are something else and the sandy shore below is both breathtaking and deserted.

Alex Pearl is a freelance copywriter and author of ‘Sleeping with the Blackbirds’.

http://sleepingwiththeblackbirds.co.uk         http://alexpearlmini.carbonmade.com